Friday, March 18, 2011

Milan Fashion Week: Some Highlights.

Alberta Ferretti



 If there is a heaven it’ll probably look like Italy. That means Milan Fashion Week into eternity. I applaud that thought and would like to become a believing Christian in an instant! An obvious distinction between day and evening wear at Alberta Ferretti. The partition between day and evening and the corresponding dress-code is very much defined nowadays. (Much to the dislikes of Anna Dello Russo I suppose.) A trend that found it’s way into the Ferretti fashion. The evening wear stayed light and airy, something we are used to at Ferretti.

Who should show up in one of these?  Carey Mulligan, Julianne Moore, Penelope Cruz, Ellen Pompeo, Fan Bingbing, Kristen Bell, Tilda Swinton (She would make the colours work, but maybe the decoration would be too much for her?), …

                                                                            Gucci


I loved the patterns, textures, velvets, and colours. Luscious colours, furs, pythons covered with fedora’s at Gucci. Nicely cut jackets, some with pants, some with knee-length skirts (pencil or wide) taking turns with floating chiffon open dresses revealing lots and lots of legs. A majestic collection created by Giannini in celebration of the 2011 90th anniversary of the label. 

Who should show up in one of these? Jennifer Lopez, Salma Hayek, Kate Beckinsale, Kylie Minogue, Monica Bellucci, One of the Desperate Housewives actresses in a season promo…

Prada


Prada gave me a distinct 60’s feeling and after reading Tim Blanks’ review on Style.com I directly came to the conclusion that this feeling was not misplaced. Most silhouettes were quite loose, hence the 60’s periode. Some furs found their way back onto the catwalk because of what I believe to be the extreme success of the boa’s seen in the 2011 spring summer collection. Personally I love that trend. Sequins and Python supposedly referred to the clichés of worldly female glamour as stated by Style’s Tim Blanks. As always the accessories were totally quirky and they will no doubt be a huge success. 

 Who should show up in one of these? Miu Miu Herself, Anna Wintour, Anna Dello Russo, Lady Gaga (as Miuccia already created a look for the monster ball tour, among other designers), Chloe Sevigny, hopefully one of the usual Prada wearing celebs like Carey Mulligan, Nicole kidman, Jessica Alba, Rita Wilson…

Versace



The thing about many of these Italian brands is they so express the house-DNA. You can see it at Roberto Cavalli, Missoni and Versace (and others). Yet again Donatella proved to be on top of her game, creating a collection with the usual Versace sassiness. Frankly I totally adore that bold, out there feeling that always shines through any one of her designs. As appropriate for winter, the collection had a more modest ring to it compared to the normal summer exuberance. A thing that struck my notice was that she clearly cut down in presenting the familiar evening dresses. I wouldn’t call the absence of these gowns a disappointment but I just felt like I really missed them. 

Who should show up in one of these? January Jones (as she is seen in the spring/summer campaign), Angelina Jolie, Demi Moore, Victoria Beckham (in one of military coats), Jennifer Lopez, Ciara, Liz Hurley, Many Asian celebs (they so love Versace), and the best for last, Donatella herself obviously.

Jil Sander



At Jil Sander our very own Belgian Raf Simons made a collection consisting of designs with varying silhouettes and colours. Some were very voluminous, while some almost fitted aerodynamically. Some clothes were totally black, while others had explosive prints. Based on the Style review I can only conclude that Simons has put enormous effort in the detailing, which made every piece a sight for sour eyes. Since I obviously wasn’t there myself, who am I to ever doubt the genius of Simons or Tim Blanks eye for detail. 

Who should show up in one of these? Tilda Swinton (definitely), Anna Dello Russo, Olsen Twins,…(it’s a less accessible brand, so it’s quite difficult to make any predictions)

Emilio Pucci



Peter Dundas kept walking the road to success at Pucci like he’s been doing for the last 2 years. The usual brighter-than-the-sun-prints were back (normally not really to my liking, but at Pucci it really works), and some dresses had been upgraded to look even more refined and luxurious (velvet, patterns using crystal, …). There was a hint of “high-on-the-hills-was-a-lonely-goatherd” to some of the designs, as well as a spot of gothic. Either way, the dresses had “red carpet” written all over them. 

Who should show up in one of these? An endless list…, Jennifer Lopez, Ciara, Kate Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Jada-Pinkett Smith, Anna Dello Russo, Gwyneth Paltrow,…

Roberto Cavalli


Something that truly surprises me is how with every season I’m starting to love Cavalli more and more. He’s just always so true to himself. The collection is just filled with his vision on life. It really is a joy to watch. The sort of gipsy chic combined with the relaxed approach to living really speaks to mind. The collection, that showed many armour-like bodysuits, had a sort of Amazone-Fierceness to it and it just overwhelmed you (in a very positive way) with a rainbow of fabrics, colours, feathers, motives and details. The designs just seem to demand you to keep on admiring in case you would overlook some delightful detail.

Who should show up in one of these? Pretty much the same people that would look good in Pucci. Many, many possibilities.

Armani


This season Armani personally surprised me. The past seasons I felt like he had sort of switched onto automatic pilot. The quality was there, as was the class, but it never really felt uber-refreshing.  With this collection I distinctly had the feeling he reinterpreted his classic jackets and trousers (which for the occasion had a light and flaring touch). It was the change of silhouette to a more loose fit that was most striking. The use of relief in his garments was as exhilarating as the apparent revitalization of his embroidery and paillette work. As so eloquently described by Tim Blanks, the reoccurring dusky pink in the collection, inspired by the rosiness of dawn, had a boudoir feeling to it, and contrasted with other more metallic and black colours. Special credit goes to the dress printed with Armani’s very own appearance mixed with a Warhol like feeling (something I might expect from Karl Lagerfeld, but not from the much more reserved Italian designer.) 

Who should show up in one of these? Anne Hathaway, Megan Fox, Jodie Foster, Angelina Jolie, Princess Astrid of Belgium, Claudia Cardinale, Sophia Loren, Charlene Wittstock, Julianne Moore, Cate Blanchett, Hilary Swank… (Many possibilities)

Missoni


It’s impossible to go from Milano to Paris without mentioning Missoni. It’s not only one of the brand with the most outspoken House-DNA but it’s also a lifelong family company (an aspect which is also featured in the Missoni ad campaigns). It seems to be thé hardest task reinventing the quirky missoni motives over and over again, but somehow it always works out beautifully and the result is never boring. Especially when you consider it’s actually a knitwear based fashion house.  This season Angela Missoni created a collection with a fan of varied rainbow like pastel colours. Very exuberant and very lively, summer feelings in cold winter times. Loose but dressed tweed-ish trousers combined with almost cape-like mantels. A paradox of menswear cuts combined with glamorous python elements. As Margerhita Missoni apparently said: “as Japanese as we can go.” (referring to the oversized pants).

Who should show up in one of these?  Leighton Meester, Nicole Richie, Eva Mendes, The Missoni Family Members, Anna Dello Russo,…

Salvatore Ferragamo


Salvatore Ferragamo designed by Massimiliano Giornetti showed a collection based upon the essential pillars of fashion. Great cuts, great fabrics, great combinations and great proportions. These design basics are the formula to success.  Classic but exciting. 

Who should show up in one of these? Carine Roitfeld, Victoria Beckham, Angelina Jolie, Demi Moore, Kate Moss, Kristen Bell, Eva Mendes,…




All pictures via style.com, inspiration via style.com and Franca Sozzani's editor's blog

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