Paris Fashion Week: Some Highlights.

Balenciaga

At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière opened with knee length skirts unveiling an exotic mix of floral prints. A contradicting combination with roughly faux-leather (according to Nicole Phelps at style.com) knitted jackets made the flowers stand out even more. Asymmetrical designs, spongy textures, and military like costumes followed the flowers. The collection seems difficult to design and difficult to describe, but easy to like. When I’m daydreaming I find myself virtually sketching designs in my head (although I’m not really all that artistic) that would easily fit in the classic French and Italian brands, but never do I succeed in drawing out something that would be Balenciaga appropriate. That’s why I’m always intrigued by Ghesquière’s collection, I never seem to understand how he comes up with it.

Who should show up in one of these? Anna Dello Russo, Kate Lanphear, Jennifer Connelly, Olsen twins, Julianne Moore,…

Mugler

Mugler must have been the most anticipated show of the Paris season because of Nicola Formichetti’s (Lady Gaga’s stylist) women wear debut. Personally I had the feeling the collection was designed in view of Lady Gaga. It was all very pop culture and “Haus of Gaga”. As if Formichetti had designed it solemnly because of the possibility to extend Gaga’s wardrobe, more than as a tribute to the Mugler DNA. Based on Phelps’ writings, the show notes spoke of an inspiration found in “post-human android-goddesses”. So all very Alien goes Gaga as we can find in the clip of “Born this way” (which actually was the soundtrack that played along the catwalk.) The collection consisted mostly of catwoman-like suits and was not bad overall, but neither was it super exciting and able to truly dazzle you (a thing that probably could not be said of Gaga’ presence though). Apparently (again, style.com) Formichetti said about the early Thierry Mugler that it was more than fashion, it was entertainment. Well, maybe it should have been less entertainment and more fashion.

Who should show up in one of these? Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Kylie Minogue, Beyonce, Kim Kardashian,…

Dries van Noten

At Dries van Noten is was all about the prints, a waterfall of motives poured into one garment (dresses, pants, jackets, coats…). Van Noten is a master in combining, not only prints but also fabrics. The Belgian designer managed to create a collection for a liberated (business) woman in control of her own life. A classic collection, relaxed but never dull, designs you would certainly notice. Being able to witness the high level of detail put into the pattern combinations must have been a rare front rower’s delight.

Who should show up in one of these? Cate Blanchett, Julianne Moore, Julia Roberts, Anna Wintour, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Olsen Twins, Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Aniston, Joan Rivers, Victoria Beckham, Scarlett Johansson, Tilda Swinton…

   

Dior

At Dior you probably could cut the tension minutes before the start of the show. Dior CEO, Sidney Toledano, gave a speech celebrating Dior’s Values, and created a diversion on the recent Galliano Catastrophe by honouring the true heart of the house consisting of the numerous seamstresses and craftsmen who work miracles behind the scenes, making sure attendants knew the consistent quality who be maintained. The collection itself had the usual Galliano modern day pirate, city bohemian and ravishing vagabond feeling to it. Excess on fabric, ranging from velour and tweed, over tulle and chiffon to fur and python. Garments, most of them with a Parisian romantic touch, were variously created to fit a gloomy rainy morning, to see through a lunch on an orange coloured day when the first leaves start to fall or to take an aperitif before dinner in early winter darkness. As Galliano goes, the fashion world is buzzing like busy little bees on his replacement.

Who should show up in one of these? Fan Bing Bing, Demi Moore, Marion Cottilard, Sharon Stone, Charlize Theron, Eva Mendes, Camilla Belle,…

 Lanvin

As Alfred Hitchcock, Alber Elbaz seemed to have become a “Master of Suspense” for his recent Lanvin Fall/Winter collection. It all started very sober and gradually flourished into the richly ruffled Lanvin we are used to. Covered in darkness, the first designs steadily became “enlightened” by a single touch of volume or a single piece of jewellery. Mystery became dramatic luscious luxury. The show finalised into a fruity mix of colourful cocktail frocks and ruffled silhouettes. True Elbaz Exuberance.   

Who should show up in one of these?  Julianne Moore, Anna Dello Russo, Tilda Swinton, Claire Danes, Jennifer Connelly, Natalie Portman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Chloe Sevigny,…

Haider Ackermann

  

Titled plausible successor to the Chanel Empire by the Kaiser himself and rumoured to be a potential replacing head designer at Dior, Haider Ackermann sure has a lot of positive karma going on. It must be said though, he deserves it entirely, because his designs are visually extremely appealing. Combining evocative colours, fabrics and even different styles together is definitely his power. The avant-garde but sophisticated collection showed a combination of elements that at one hand felt very NY, on the other London like, and also Milano, without ever loosing the Parisian romantic chic. As Jennifer Saunders said in her first episode as Edina Monsoon in Absolutely Fabulous: “Just get me something from every collection, I want to look completely happening and unbiased.”  That’s what Haider Ackermann obtained by channelling all the dimensions of fashion into one collection.

Who should show up in one of these? Tilda Swinton, Julianne Moore, Cate Blanchett, Kate Winslet, Uma Thurman, Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney,…

  

Gaultier

Gaultier’s attendants must have had a lot of fun at the Fall Winter 2011/2012 show. There surely was a lot of action, baring in mind that all models removed their coats, scarves and gloves at the end over the runway (probably the explanation why the catwalk was long like a French Boulevard) revealing a old nanny themed classic collection. Beehives and Bouffant a plenty. 

Who should show up in one of these? Dita von Teese.

Hermès

Since Jean Paul Gaultier left Hermès last season, Christophe Lemaire has been appointed as Hermès new women’s prêt a porter designer. The fall winter collection was his much anticipated debut. A collection based on the Hermès heritage of luxurious but functional travel wear. Influences form the Middle and Far East found their way into the designs. Kaftans, Kimonos and Djellabahs, coats and longs skirts well executed on the in and outside were shown on the catwalk. A modern day sophisticated nomad rising out of the house’s history.  Red, orange, turquoise cashmeres, leathers, furs and tweeds decorated with quilting, tassels, silk scarves and neck pieces were the proof of artisanship.

Who should show up in one of these? Cate Blanchett, Julianne Moore, Dita Von Teese, Minnie Driver, Renée Zellweger, Victoria Beckham (capes and coats), Kristin Scott Thomas, Cynthia Nixon, Kylie Minogue, Anna Wintour, Franca Sozzani,…

Givenchy

At Givenchy it was all about the printed panthers and purple orchid prints. Ricardo Tisci created a sexy and seductive collection consisting of loose sweaters, varsity jackets and tightly fitting knee length skirts. With the buzz circling off his possible appointment as new head designer at Dior, and the endless line of celebrity cattle seated onto the front row the show was a huge success. The after party must have been an even bigger hit.

Who should show up in one of these? Liv Tyler, Anna Dello Russo, Kylie Minogue, Florence Welch, Ciara, Giovanna Battaglia (the little dresses), Rihanna,

Céline

 For several season Phoebe Philo has proven to do no wrong at Céline. This season she didn’t disappoint either. It was all about shapes, squares and geometric figures folded into heavy coats, neat tunics, turtlenecks and sharply fitted pants. Surfaces and lines were broken up by colours, motives (even wood-grain prints), furs and leather to create movement into the linearity. Practical style aware city business women all over the world will heave a sigh of relief seeing this collection.

Who should show up in one of these? Victoria Beckham, Sofia Coppola, Emmanuelle Alt, Giovanna Battaglia, Miroslava Duma, Tilda Swinton,…

   

Viktor & Rolf

At Viktor & Rolf, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren created a modern day armoured knight. Tons of exaggerated (quite usual at V&R though) volumes poured into high shaped shoulders, collars and sleeves. Heavy contrasts of reds, blacks and whites felt a little bit like medieval crusaders. Faces were painted in bright red to represent the idea of warriors even more (or maybe just an allergic reaction to the make up?). The collection apparently reflected on today’s constant battle for creativity in a fashion world that changes increasingly with more and more speed.

Who should show up in one of these? Anna Dello Russo, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Gwyneth Paltrow, Leigh Lezark, Chloe Sevigny,…

Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati had been looking at the house’s archives before designing the fall winter collection for Yves Saint Laurent, which resulted in a show worthy of The Master himself. It is safe to say he captured the past and the present into one collection. Bringing together decades of YSL heritage into one assemblage demands craftsmanship. Outstanding were the lean coats and jackets in Prince of Wales check as were the furs he constructed into the garments. A blinding white finale consisting of glamorous gowns (or is it palazzo pants, or both?) embellished with chains and bows. At style.com the YSL review ended with the following words: “a balance between sacred and profane, that kind of equilibrium seemed like the essence of YSL—and Pilati too.”

Who should show up in one of these? Juliette Binoche, Kristin-Scott Thomas, Carine Roitfeld, Alexa Chung, Sofia Coppola, Julianne Moore, Zoe Saldana, Carey Mulligan, Audrey Tautou, Anna Dello Russo, Kylie Minogue, Kate Moss,…

  

Chloé

At Chloé, Hannah MacGibbon’s obsession had gone from Camel (like the colour) to Cobra (actually python) within a year. Yes, there was a lot of snakeskin, maybe even a bit too much, but that’s a matter of personal taste. Fun though, to see a varied palette of fabrics, leathers and snakeskins in a range of different colours. Very refreshing, with a happy ring to it. But as Franca Sozzani said on her daily blog, more a collection of garments in different styles than a collection basted on one brand. A bit of an identity crisis? You could not lay your finger on a precise style. For next season Hannah MacGibbon is going to have to bring on more Chloé Coherence.

Who should show up in one of these? Jada-Pinkett Smith, Jennifer Lopez, Anna Dello Russo, Carine Roitfeld, Chloe Sevigny, Rachel Zoe, Kylie Minogue, Julianne Moore,…

  

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney presented a show of extremes, flirting with both masculinity and femininity, opposing super sized versus sharply tailored. Pantsuits, blazers and tuxedo’s represented the masculine side, where polka dot printed see-through dresses and sleeveless stretchy hourglass frocks took on the feminine role. The spring summer citrus prints made room for sugary sweet garments that seemed to be in candy wrap cocoons. Menswear for Women, Stella McCartney at her best.

Who should show up in one of these? Stella McCartney herself obviously, Sienna Miller, Daphne Guinness, Ellen Pompeo, Victoria Beckham, Thandie Newton, Rihanna,…

Chanel

A dramatic setting at Chanel, a sort of post volcanic eruption, scorched and still smouldering scenery. Possibly at World’s end or after a crater impact, a truly apocalyptic scene. The scenery had channelled (almost a little word joke) it’s way into the collection. Rough and distressed looks. Garments looking like used goods that were hastily put on in an attempt to escape a horrific tragedy. Mostly over sized pieces with lots of menswear influences (especially wide shoulders), but still the usual Chanel touch, with fabrics ranging from the accustomed tweed and dotted wool to chiffon and quilted leather. Difficult though, everybody instinctively knows what the Chanel Style is, but ask someone to describe it, and it becomes an almost impossible task. Tunics, capes, jumpsuits and a whole row of pants brought up an alternating atmosphere as if they had  survived a dramatic disaster or dated from a Van Helsing like medieval Gothic era. At first I had a bit of a “you’ve got to be kidding me, this looks too bloody rough”-feeling, but when I actually got the whole Karl-concept it came to me that this was a typical genius Lagerfeld-move. Why? Because he has, yet again, modernised the whole Chanel brand. The collection is based on today’s trends and on what modern women want, namely a mixture between street style and (almost couture) fashion. No fashion house can escape the influences of the internet and young people on the streets. That’s what keeps Chanel and Kaiser Karl going, always embracing nowadays’ trends.   

Who should show up in one of these? Florence Welch, Lily Allen, Michelle Williams, Blake Lively, Diane Kruger, Anna Mouglalis, Eva Green, Keira Knightly, Caroline Sieber, Leigh Lezark, Alexa Chung,… 

Valentino

Granted Valentino retired voluntarily, but I am still recovering from and adapting to his absence. Since his departure I believe not that many designs with the true Valentino-esque touch have seen the light of day. Every time there’s a new Valentino collection I read about redefining the evening and day wear. Does Valentino need redefining? Today’s market demands probably do ask for a chance. But combining Valentino and studs won’t work for me. Obviously it wasn’t all bad, it still remained a collection based on the house’s DNA. The flowers and feathers processed into small silhouettes, and the sensuous evening dresses ruffled and with lace made a sophisticated and feminine collection. As found in the Chanel collection, the distinction between daywear and eveningwear vanished a bit. Franca Sozzani said: “most of our live revolves around daytime”, but why not have a bit of evening elegance during the day? A collection suitable for all social occasions around the clock.

Who should show up in one of these? Florence Welch, Jennifer Aniston, Cate Blanchett, Diane Kruger, Alexa Chung, Kirsten Dunst, Keira Knightley, Anna Hathaway, Giovanna Battaglia, Gwyneth Paltrow, Nicole Kidman, Elle Fanning, Kate Beckinsale, Sofia Coppola,…

Alexander McQueen

Sarah Burton created a Vintage McQueen Ambiance at La Conciergerie. Show notes spoke of Heritage silhouettes. Silhouettes honouring the Alexander Aesthetic were reinterpreted by Burton for this occasion.  Icy intentions were softened out by organza, tulle and fur. Armoured women showed full length dresses with a Henry VIII feeling to them. High collars, furs, bustiers and origami like details made the collection sexy and exciting. Because of her avant-garde view on elegance Sarah Burton has proven to be able to do more than just walking in McQueen’s footsteps. She’s going ahead quite firmly on the pad that McQueen laid out for her.

  

Who should show up in one of these? Daphne Guinness, Salma Hayek (she’d better not, but I know she will), Zoe Saldana, Sarah Jessica Parker, Anna Dello Russo, Lady Gaga,…

Miu Miu

Funny to see how very different Franca Sozzani and Nicole Phelps (style.com) interpreted Miu Miu’s collection. Proves yet again, how little truths there are in Fashion. (I wonder what the show notes told.) One sure thing, the inspiration was the 40’s era. The setting showed magnificent views of La Tour Eiffel, anno World War II according to Phelps, but I’m inclined to follow Sozzani’s 1940’s America rendition. Knee-length pencil skirts and slim fitted dresses covered in a palette of different gorgeous flowery prints or elegantly sweeping birds (doves possibly, or maybe starlings?). Prints were outspoken, yet not screaming, very cheerful, a summer’s touch to turn the winter’s cold into wonderland. Many furs, rapped around the waist (alternated with feminine bows), folded around the shoulders or processed into handbags (most of them looking like coin purses blown out of all proportions, but in a good way obviously). Broad shouldered coats in grey’s, beige’s, bleu’s and yellows (between ochre and saffron). Many colours, but also many collars. Miu Miu always feels like Prada’s more accessible sister, and these show was no exception. A show for city women who want to be dressed in elegant daywear, ready to brush off some of winter’s gloominess.

Who should show up in one of these? Julianne Moore, Leighton Meester, Victoria Beckham, Eva Green, Kirsten Dunst, Michelle Williams, Sienna Miller, Giovanna Battaglia,…

  

Louis Vuitton

The night porter with Charlotte Rampling, and the accompanying grand entrance in a majestic hotel, was the inspiration for the Louis Vuitton catwalk setting. Coincidentally also dating from the 1940’s era, as was Miu Miu’s show. Four retro elevators going up and down with models popping out one by one. Personally my first notion was in line with last years Fall Winter collection. Most of the clothes seemed so stodgy, heavy materials used in heavy designs. Only the 20 something last pieces were really to my taste (I did like the under the knee skirts that seemed to be built out of overlapping scales, like a crocodiles armour). It was an elaborate collection though, lots of materials, based on the idea of fetishes. Patent and plastics, chains and handcuffs, extremely sleek waist belts and monogram or fur covered porter caps, sexy stockings contrasting with neat collars, lace and dominatrix boots, see trough versus heavy garments, a palette of fabrics all intertwined through one theme. A sensuous and saucy collection, from sexy maid to highly paid escort.

Who should show up in one of these? Fan Bing Bing, Gong Li, Sofia Coppola, Dita von Teese, Thandie Newton,... 

Elie Saab

With Elie Saab it is impossible to do wrong. Extremely elegant, slim silhouettes and different interpretations of day and evening dresses, in blacks, burgundy purples, beiges, greys, and reds. Timeless classics were shown but from time to time it felt a little uninspiring and unimaginative. Celebrities will be queuing for the many glamorous evening gowns, but nevertheless attention was also on day wear this season. You will never hear me say something bad of Elie Saab, because the brand is always about top of the range clothing, but maybe for next season spring will bring a little bit of sparkle…

Who should show up in one of these? Celine Dion, Florence Welch, Mila Kunis, Anne Hathaway, Fan Bing Bing, Hilary Swank, Helen Mirren, Halle Berry,...

All photo's via style.com, inspiration via style.com and http://www.vogue.it/en/magazine/editor-s-blog